After working as Van Support for a week, sitting in the car and shuttling guests, I started fearing the loss of my ability to ride a bike. So on my first day off (and my one day before heading to Rome with a friend) I took myself on a nice hard, long ride (yes, I know).
One of the highest peaks in Tuscany, which doesn't actually make that large of a statement, is Monte Luco. There are three roads that take you to summit, and I've ridden one of them with guests on trip. I decided, as a right of passage, to conquer the path deemed the most challenging. The climb from the surrounding area was about 1,000 feet, which is not as impressive as I like to tell myself, but it was fairly steep and constant. My thighs definitely got a good burn.
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I came from Montevarchi; this sign at the top shows the other two routes to summit. |
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Earned another great view. |
I road down through the valley to the town of Gaiole (one of the five main Chianti towns) to grab a coffee, regroup and plan my route back home. This was at 46 km/29 mi. My legs felt great going up the hill, and the pistacchio cannolo and cappuccino really boosted my confidence. The idea popped into my head that I could ride back up Monte Luco the way I'd come down, and then I'd be able to say I had summited the peak from all three directions. Once that idea entered, my pride wouldn't let go, so I said goodbye to the nice English vacationers I'd met and headed back on my way.
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Mid-ride coffee stop and route routing ;) |
I now have a very biased opinion of the final route up Monte Luco. My confidence starting slipping as the uphill began; my thigh muscles weren't so machine-like as I'd fancied. I started to bonk pretty badly, and couldn't find my rhythm between short sections of steepness and cruising breaks downhill. In the end I made it to the top, and I'll probably never tell anyone how difficult it was for me. (Oops, too late)
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Summiting from the third direction, what a beautiful sight! |
There is a town nearby named Panzano, which houses a famous butcher restaurant. The owner, Dario Cecchini, became well-known for his supreme skill with all things meat. He's had Mario Batali as a culinary student and has been published in Bill Buford's book
The Heat: An Amateur's Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany (Guess which part describes Dario). I had been waiting for a chance to try it out, and figured it would be a great recovery meal from my 92 km ride (kilometers make me seem so much more impressive).
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A great question to ask |
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The aperitivo was a party! Apprentices walked around refilling shots of grappa and glasses of wine. I got a picture with Dario (on someone else's camera). Turns out he either has turrets or really likes to squeeze younger women. |
You eat in a group setting, so our table ended up being filled with a group of mid-forties Italian men. It was a riot.
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I thought the second one on the left looked a bit like Daniel Craig. All the guys thought that was hilarious. |
All of the meat dishes were EXCELLENT (the other dishes not so much). My favorite was a dish called Rosmarino in Culo, translated to Rosemary up the Bum. It was raw ground pork butt with rosemary mixed in. Turns out I like Rosemary up the Bum very much.
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This is an unrelated picture of an udder-like ketchup bottle at a local food-fest in San Giovanni. HIlarious |
I am not envious of you when it comes to those uphill rides, but what a fun party to eat with!!!
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